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Putting a micro bevel on a scandi

n5750547

Les Hiddins
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Well I really need to get out more to use the GB mini more bit I love it. I really enjoy how you can use it at the star of a carving task to get rid of a lot of material.

Its not a necessity at all but easy to justify since it weighs so little..

The saw is awesome.. Theres always plenty of downed trees in the aussie bush. Not so easy to process though when they have dried. The bahco saw performs admirably but the larger bow saw is on a whole new level..
Have you compared the mini and the wildlife at all? I just ordered the wildlife but I'm wondering if the mini might be better as I usually walk a fair distance when i get outside.

Also, how much did the Adventure Sworn saw set you back (shipped to Aus) if you don't mind me asking?

Cheers
Phil
 

pap11y

Richard Proenneke
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Have you compared the mini and the wildlife at all? I just ordered the wildlife but I'm wondering if the mini might be better as I usually walk a fair distance when i get outside.

Also, how much did the Adventure Sworn saw set you back (shipped to Aus) if you don't mind me asking?

Cheers
Phil

They are pretty similar. I think the wildlife would be awesome as well at what I am using the mini for.. When I first got a wildlife I wasn't carving and just thought it was pointless as a chopping tool so I sold it..

That being said it will be considerably better at chopping than the mini but chopping wood in australia with these small axes just isn't my idea of fun anymore..

mini is 350 grams and wildlife is 640 grams (approx)

Pics as a comparison..

zY2NgS.jpg


My Adventure sworn bucksaws were part of the first batch and I got 2 at $80 each plus postage..

They are listed at $90 USD now + postage and you sometimes get more expensive exotic steels..

Still... much cheaper than the Ray mears option and a fantastic tool....

That being said a bow saw from bunnings is much cheaper.. Just cant be folded..
 

Hoodoo

Russell Coight
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I do a microbevel but it's usually a convex microbevel. Just lay the blade flat on a mouse-pad backed sanding block. I use very fine sandpaper, maybe 1000 grit. Light strokes, then strop. If I have a scandi with a secondary bevel, I usually just knock off the corner of the secondary bevel to create the convex microbevel.
 

old4570

Ray Mears
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Hmmm , I did a micro bevel on the Mora since the 70s .. ( My first brought to me by my Aunt from Sweden around 77/78 ) ( I still have it )
Was just easier ..
Only recently did I buy a Robust and go to the effort of re sharpening the factory edge Scandi .
It takes a lot longer . One of these days I will have to test edge holding , see which is better for edge retention .
I know which is more convenient and easier to maintain in the field . But what is the performance difference ?
 

Badventures87

Russell Coight
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I started doing this too when I noticed my full scandi knives getting little chips from dirt in bark (my guess). Works a treat.

My last knife purchase came with a secondary bevel on the scandi and I absolutely hate it, so much so that it's being sent away to be reprofiled.
Hi Richard, where can blades be sent to be reprofiled, I also have a similar issue.
 
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