Glad you like it.
I heard both FM78 and FM81 were to be discontinued. I could be missinformed, but I have asked a few suppliers, as I wanted a second one (a spare) and even they can't get them now.
From what I've seen there are far more FM81's still for sale than FM78's. IMO the reason why is the FM78 is more versatile, applies with Geneva convention combat rules and maybe 30% stronger. I tried to get a second FM78 at a descent price, I can't. You can also baton FM78, without damaging the saw back like you do on on FM81. See here..
Yes I hear the Glock knife can be attached to a spear in emergencies. I am not convinced it would hold up IMO, however. There simply isn't enough lateral strength. Its more purposely designed for bayonnet attachment to the Styre AUG, where it is supported at two points not one.
But no, the spear I made doesn't use the knife, it is a serious and dedicated piece of equipment I had to design and make myself as there wasn't anything out there strong enough I trusted myself and thats even after reading reviews of expensive spears like Cold Steel sells, and thats if you can get your hands on them.
My spear consists of a section of steel pipe (the tip) inserted into an aluminium pole (the shaft), which are then both drilled through and rivetted together - its a very, very heavy duty spear that wont fail you, IMO! I designed this spear to sustain massive lateral and penetrating forces. Not to get into too gruesome terriroy, but I designed it specifically with close quatre combat in mind, where hitting and wedging between bones may occur, as such it had to have very strong lateral and penetrating strength both on the shaft and where the steel-tip-end-section connected to the shaft. In the right weight it will penetrate a 1" thick heavy duty pine pallet crate (not pictured but I tried it), which could make it a descent fishing spear, pursuant to local laws of course. The impact force was so great, I was surprised to see it kept moving a heavy duty table I made from heavy duty pallet crates back and the target (all weighed around 60-70kg see pics), so I had to purposely build a target frame using an old heavy door and a pallet crate, I then weighed it down with 350kgs of sand bags.
For the tip I tried to find 304L stainless steel for possible marine use (also) or a second spear, then considered hardened steel for use on land, but for now I've settled on mild steel for the bush and I'm sort of glad I did now. This is because its difficult sourcing stainless offcuts than fit perfectly into the aluminium shaft, hardended steel tubing is even garder to find and drill though; and long lengths of stainless (which is all you can order) are very expensive $600+. But besides that, during testing it took some 33 throws for the tip to only slightly deform after penetrating a large VCR cupboard made from laminated chipboard 3/4" thick, and the tip is easily restored using the file, or if the damage is bad even cutting off a piece of the end using the angle grinder if you accidentally hit a rock or somthing - wow, new spear!
The only real downside I have found during testing, along with getting the balance right is the aluminium shaft gets hot in the sun! I thought this could be solved by possibly using pipe insulation or some sort of rubber coating, like bicycle inner tubing.
Here are some pictures of a prototype I made about 9 months ago (viewer discretion is advised). I am yet to build the final product, as I needed to order the alloy pipe, and the supplier forgot to do it! After some trial and error, I will get it made, ready for winter camping this year. Sure the tip isn't hardened steel or stainless, but its proved it should, if necessary, serve adequetly.
Well there you go, whats not too like - a servicable, simple but reliable spear one can make at home using average tools and dirt cheap materials. The spear cost a mere $31AUD to make. The alloy pole was $30 and the piece of used mild steel pipe was $1. Oh there was a rubber stopper I had to buy for a few bucks (I got 4) and glue on one end to protect the aluminium form the ground.
I used a rivett gun, rivets, a drill, clamps, flexible rule, sharpie and a file.
Making this spear was born out of necessity, my own experiences and talking with senior bushman. It is an essential and last resort investment for my personal security in the bush against possible and unavoidable, close quartre animal attack. SAFETY: I noticed in addition to an essential sheath and obviously sensible and cautious use, its important the spear be significantly taller than the user, to account for taking strides through the bush when walking with the spear. You definetely dont ever want to fall on it or cop it in the face.
Heavy duty, thick-walled mild steel pipe is sourced from a junk yard that snugly fits a medium-heavy guage 1.6mm aluminium pipe 6.5ft long. Aluminium shaft diameter was tested and I settled on 28-31mm for grip and this diamater is commonly available.
When inserted the two sections of pipe are then drilled through and rivetted in as shown. A plastic cap is added for a sheath (later to be PVC)
The business end is cut to a Tanto point, said to be the strongest penetrating tip known to man (see RMJ Tactical, Cold Steel etc. cavlar helmet tests). I trued up and sharpened with a bastard file, then oiled to prevent rust and applied a temporary make-shift safety cap (sheath). Its not to most efficient tip, but its simple, strong and as mentioned before, its construction has its advanatges. I dare say it will also help keep an attacking animal(s) at bay, and do more if necessary.
Testing results. This is a medium weight spear. Thats said its throwing penetration was very good. Being a bit tip heavy, it just lacked the finesse I sought for trekking. Afterall it was only a prototype I made for testing balance and tip length etc. My user bush spear will be lighter for trekking purposes and not intened for throw-penetration, but ore thrusting and close quartre combat, while still being very strong. This is my reassurance in the bush. The throwing and target practice was just for fun and fitness - and I thought while I'm still but barely young enough too, why not!
Thrown from 20 feet away.
Straight through! Most penetrated, but were at an angle. This one looked good for a picture.
I insisted on a spear I could rely on. This spear penetrated this 3/4" thick double laminated board 33 times from memory and with startling authority, sometimes embedding into the pallet crate table behind it as well after passing through the chip board, before the tip deformed as shown, and only slightly too. I was pretty impressed but this. It must be Australian steel! After all this abuse and more, there was absolutely no play in the spear tip whatsoever. It was still rock solid. I read rivets are the strongest bonding known to man and they are replaceable. This is why I used them.